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3 



The Manner in which to take the Measures 
for the Present System. 

Measure ovei- the vest, for Frock, Dress, or Body Coat ; also Undersacks. 

Make a mark at socket bone, make another mark about two and one -half inches 
round (he neck from socket bone, then find natural waist, and make a mark. Place a 
common yard-stick against the back, resting on the most prominent parts of right 
shoulder blade and hip, the top of yard-stick extending up to neck. Then, with the 
ruler, ascertain how many inches from the yard-stick in to mark at side of neck. This 
measure we will term incline of neck. Then find how many inches of hollow of waist. 
Then place the yard-stick in a horizontal position, resting on the most prominent parts 
of both shoulder blades, and find how many inches the arm advances forward from the 
yard-stick. This measure should bo taken to where the arm joins the body. This 
measure is termed incline of arm. Leaving the yard-stick and ruler aside, take the 
tape and measure from mark at side of neck over full part of blade to natural waist, 
fashionable length of waist, and full length of coat. Then take measure of armscye. 

Take shoulder measure from mark at socket bone, down under the arm and back to 
socket bone. Measure length of sleeve the same as is generally done in measui'ing leg 
seam of pantaloons, by placing the end of the tape between the two first fingers of left 
hand, and placing under the arm, and ascertain the length required at hand. Then 
measure the circumference of breast and waist. This mode of measuring is a new and 
correct way of finding the shape, whether stooping over or very erect. 

XJ^DERSA.CK. 

Measures for the Undersack are taken the same as for the Frock, with the exception 
of fashionable length of waist, which is not taken. 

Measures for Overcoat should be taken the same as for under coat, only taken with 
a coat on. 



5 



To Draft the Frock, Dress, or Body Coat, as in Diagram A. 

Commence by drawing line of back, and draw top line at light angle. Place 
measure of incline of neck, scale A, at A, and go down line of back to B, scale 1, 
breast measure. Place incline of arm scale B, at A, and go across top line to C, scale 
2, breast. Place incline of arm scale C, at C, and continue on top line to D, scale 3, 
breast. Place incline of arm scale D, at D, and come back on top line to E, scale 4, 
breast, and square lines as in diagram. 

Then place incline of neck scale E, on line of bottom of armscye, at F, and go up to 
E, scale 5, breast. In case of a very erect form, point E will reach above the tou line, 
as in diagram B, and for a very round shoulder it will not reach top line as in diagram 
C. Go each side of centre line to G and II, scale 6, breast, from II to I, scale G. from 
I to J, scale G, from A to K, scale G, draw a line from centre of armscye to G, and 
form armscye. Then apply the tape from line L around the armscye to J, one half 
the armscye measure with one-half inch added, and from line L to M, the other half of 
armscye measure, with one-half inch added. Apply the tape from A to K, and from 
E to line L, around bottom of armscye, up to A, and ascertain how many inches. Add 
three inches to shoulder measure for making up. If the distance from A to K, and 
from E round bottom of armscye to A, be more than the shoulder measure with three 
inches added, lower top of back and point E equal distances to it will correspond as in 
diagram E — a — a and a. If the distance aforesaid be not enough, raise top of back, 
and point E equal distances as in diagram E — c — c and c. Go from E to 0, scale 6, 
and one inch from D to P, scale 6, twice, and form gorge. The height of gorge is not 
confined to point P, except on military garments. 

Erom A, or top of back, to Q, measure of natural waist, and to R, fashionable waist. 
S is the same distance from Q, as Q is from B. From Q to T is regulated by fashion. 
From T to U, measure of hollow of waist. Form side seam of back and sidebody, leav- 
ing sidebody one-fourth of an inch longer than the back for waist seam. Draw a 
line from bottom of sidebody to W. For spring of skirt, from line of top of skirt, to 
X, half the measure of hollow of waist, and form as in diagram. 



7 



DIAGRAM B. 

TO FIT THE VERY ERECT FORM. 

Proceed the same as in diagram A. The measure of incline of neck being smaller, 
makes a shorter distance between A and B, and longer between F and E, letting front 
shoulder point go up above the top line, leaving length enough to follow the round of 
breast. The width of back is narrower than that of diagram A, for the reason that the 
incline of arm is smaller, making a narrower back, and wide fore part. If desired to 
make the waist seam curved, take off top of skirt at H, and add the same on fore part. 
But if desired to make a full skirt, let the skirt and fore part lap each other at II. The 
move the lap in front, the more drapery there will be at the bottom of skirt. 



8 



DIAGRAM C. 



TO FIT THE STOOPING FORM. 



The incline of neck being large, makes the back long from A to B, and the distance 
from F to E short, point E being below the top line. The incline of arm being large, 
makes the back wide and the fore part narrow, at the same time advancing front 
shoulder point. 




9 
DIAGRAM D. 

THE C R P U L K N T FORM. 



There is one very important point in drafting a coat, and that is in getting the 
front shouhler point in (he right phice. Scales D and 4, in diagrnni A, find this point 
for a well proportioned fignre. But where the wai<t increases, the shoulder needs 
throwing back from E, on top line. A sure way of doing this is to add the measure 
of hollow of waist to half the circumference of waist, and if the amount should exceed 
the half of circumference ot breast one inch, go from E to A one inch, or one and one- 
half, or two inches, or whatever this rule will give. If half the circumference of breast 
be 20 inches, and half the circumference of waist be 19 1-2 inehe-;, and the hollow of 
waist 1 1-2 inches, add 1 1-2 to 19 1-2, making 21 ; 20 f'-om 21 leaves 1 ; go from 
E to A 1 inch, and from B to C 1 inch. But if these measures combined be smaller 
than the breast, let the front shoulder point remain at E, nnd take V out at bottom of 
fore part. 




lO 



DIAGRAM E. 

Represents the clir.nges made for a long and short neck. This change is made by the 
shouMer measure b, at top of back, and b at front shoulder point is the height found 
by the divisions on the square. 

Apply the ta[ c from b to b, across top of back, and from b at front shoulder point 
to L, round bottom of arinsize, back to b at top of back, and ascertain how many 
inches. Now add 3 inches to shoulder measure for making up, and compare both 
measures. If the measure of draft be 1 inch short, add 1-2 inch to top of back, mak- 
ing top of back at c and c, and also 1-2 inch to c front shoulder point. This fits the 
lono- neck. But if the measure of draft be 1 inch more than shoulder measure, with 
3 inches added take off 1-2 inch at top of back and front shoulder point, making these 
points at a — a and a. Thus by lengthening or shortening the back and front an equal 
amount, the balance remains the same. 




11 



DIAGRAM F. 

THE SLEEVE. 

Go from A to B, scale G, measure of armscyc from B to C, the same from A to F, 
half of armscye from A to J, one-fourth (tf armscye from I to II, one-half the distance 
from A to B, from C to II one-half of armscye. from G to L, the same amount as left 
on the shoulder to be built up from C to D. jNIeasure of length of sleeve from D to E, 
one inch. M is half the distance from K to G. 




13 



DIAGRAM G. 

THE SACK COAT. 

To draft the Sack Coat proceed the same as in diagram A, as far as line on bottom 
of armscye, the only difference between a Sack and Frock Coat being from line on bot- 
tom of armscye to the bottom of coat, the upper part of both garments being exactly 
alike B is the natural waist. Go from B to C the same distance as B is from A; go 
from B to E one-fourth of waist, from E to F measure of hollow of waist, from G to H 
threo-(|uarters of an inch, and strike a line from F to H for spring of skirt," and form 
as in diagram. 






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